Best of Zagreb: The story of the Ban Jelačić statue

Every citizen of Zagreb is familiar with the Ban Jelačić square, not only because it is the main square in the city, but because it truly is the heart of Zagreb. The uniting point where the old meets the modern. There are very few locations in Croatia as active as the Ban Jelačić square. Be it the middle of the day or late at night, summer or winter, there will always be people exploring the square. From citizens of Zagreb going for coffee or shopping or travelers exploring the city’s core. One vital part of the square is the statue that gives it its name. The statue of Ban Jelačić is a symbol of Zagreb but also a symbol of Croatian independence through history. But it has not always been that way. 

What is now the heart of the city was actually the edge of Zagreb in the past. And the square was not even a square but an ordinary farmers market called Harmica. Harmica is actually a Hungarian word for “trading”. This market was a place where people of Zagreb would come to buy produce, trade clothes and farming equipment. Everything south of the market was a forest area. 

Enter Ban Josip Jelačić

People often get confused about the meaning of the word “ban” but in simplest terms it means someone with the same authority presidents wield today. Ban Josip Jelačić was not only an important figure to Croatia in a very tumultuous time but he soon became a symbol of Croatia's never ending fight for its independence.

Ban Jelačić came to power in a time where Croatians had very little rights. Not only that but their territory did not even belong to them. Also peasants that worked on farms trying to feed their families were not actually free. They worked under the rule of the Hungarian government. 

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Ban Jelačić led many battles against the Hungarians and other forces trying to take away the freedoms of the Croatian people. Known for his efforts to abolish serfdom and for leading Croatian troops against Hungarian revolutionaries during the turbulent years of the Revolutions of 1848, Jelačić became a symbol of Croatian autonomy and identity. The Croatian people loved Ban Josip Jelačić so much it was decided that his statue would be raised in what was now developing into the main square in Zagreb. The statue was created by the renowned Austrian sculptor Anton Dominik Fernkorn and unveiled on October 16, 1866. This was a perfect way to honor the Ban of Croatia  who was in power from 1848 to 1859. 

The craftsmanship of the statue

There are several notable aspects of the statue that are very interesting. Almost everything has some historical significance and an interesting tale behind it. The statue depicts Ban Jelačić mounted on his horse, right arm raised and sword unsheathed, as if charging into battle. 

A fascinating detail often discussed by visitors and locals alike is the position of the horse’s legs. According to popular legend, a statue of a horseman can reveal the fate of the rider: if both front legs are raised, the rider died in battle; if one front leg is raised, the rider was wounded in battle or died later of wounds; if all four legs are on the ground, the rider survived unharmed. In Jelačić’s statue, the horse has one front leg raised, suggesting he was wounded in battle, though historically, Jelačić died of illness rather than battle wounds. It’s worth noting that art historians debate the accuracy and origin of this “code,” but it adds a romantic layer to the monument’s interpretation.

Originally, the statue faced north toward Hungary, symbolically challenging Hungarian domination. However, this political symbolism became controversial over time.

A hero no more

After the second World War, the communist party took over the entire area of Croatia and the country of Yugoslavia was born. This new regime was not fond of Ban Jelačić and what he stood for and in general they were against idolizing figures from the past. The idolizing was to remain in the present for the leaders in charge at the moment. For that reason, one day during the night, the statue was quietly removed from the square. The whereabouts of the statue were not shared with the public but it became a taboo topic in the country. The square was renamed to the National Square and that is how it was for almost 50 years.

Return of the icon

Then finally in 1990 Croatia gained its independence for the first time in history. This marked a major turning point in the country's history. The people of Croatia were involved in a war at that moment but it was important to gain as much cultural independence as they could in that crucial moment in time. The public demanded their hero back, a hero that represented Croatia's attempts through history to be free. For that reason, the statue of the iconic Ban Jelačić was returned to its rightful place.

It wasn’t until 1990, on the eve of Croatia’s independence, that the statue was restored to its rightful place. On October 11, 1990, Ban Josip Jelačić once again stood in the center of Zagreb. This time the statue was turned to face the south instead of the north, a gesture symbolizing unity rather than confrontation.Today, the statue of Ban Josip Jelačić is not only a beloved meeting point for locals but also a powerful reminder of Croatia’s turbulent history, the enduring struggle for national identity, and the art that keeps that memory alive in bronze. Whether admired for its artistry or its story, it remains a central symbol of Zagreb’s living history.

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